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Paris Favorites: 2014

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The  Jardin  d'Acclimation  is  located  just  outside  Paris' city  limits.
It's  also  the  location  for  Frank  Gehry's  new  building  " The  Cloud, " 
(will  house the Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation museum).   We  went  with  the  intention  of  seeing  the  building  and  ended  up  loving  the  park!  
The  Jardin  d'Acclimation is located at the northern end of the Bois  de Boulogne, one of four parks from Baron Haussman's  19th-century redesign of Paris.  The other three are the Bois de Vincennes, the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and the Parc Monceau.  Each is worth a visit.


The Jardin d'Acclimation retains its mid-19th-century atmosphere in many ways.  
It's a maze of open walkways, low, rolling hills and multi-cultural landmarks.  Perhaps best of all are the endless kiddie-rides, zoo animals, and charming follies.  There are plenty of restaurants and cafés as well (including an outpost of Angélina!)  This was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our trip!  It's  a   fantastic  place   for   kids   and   families,   and   is   off   the   usual   tourist   path.   
Finally, I'd wondered how a Frank Gehry building would fit into this scenario . . . beautifully, it turns out!





Le    Jardin    d'Acclimation   Bois de Boulogne,  75016  Paris
  Metro :   Les Sablons   or   Pont de Neuilly
daily: May-Sept 10am-7pm/Oct-Apr 10am-6pm  entry: €1.45-€2.90  under 3: free
Recommended:   Catch the 73  bus, which passes right in front of the Musée d'Orsay.   For a little extra time and one metro ticket, you'll ride up the Champs-Elysées and around the Étoile-Charles de Gaulle/Arc de Triomphe on your way.   It's easy :  exit the bus at Les Sablons  and you're there!


2.   The   Cats'  Café 

 I    LOVED    the    CAFÉ    DES    CHATS ! 
What   a   FUN   place   with   a   FANTASTIC   concept 
and  delicious  food  to  boot!
The   Café   des   Chats   is  home  to  strays
and  shelter  cats  who  would  otherwise  be  put  down.   


Resident cats,  in  their  usual  spots  to  the  left,
monitor  the  goings-on  in  the  rue  Michel  Le  Comte (above).
Upon arrival, you are asked not to feed the cats, disturb those who are sleeping, or pick them up (if they jump in your lap, that's a different story!)  It's clear you've arrived in their domain!   You  are  invited  to  enjoy  their  presence  
(and,  of  course, the  food  and  drink.)  
What  I  loved  most  about  this  place  was  how *happy* everyone  was !   
Cats,  customers  and  employees  alike,  it  was  clearly  a  mutual-appreciation  society!  (Someone needs to open a dogs' café!)


These two (above) were always watching the front window.  
 One of the waiters called them "des petits voleurs de pain" (bread thieves!)
excerpts    from    the     Café    des    Chats   website : 
We  adopted  our  cats  from  shelters.    They weren't chosen for the color of their fur, the texture of their coat, or the color of their eyes.
As our only criteria is their well-being, we chose cats who enjoy the presence of people and other cats.   Our cats have run of the café  (excluding the kitchen)  at all times. 
Our cats' welfare is very important to us.  All remain in the care of a veterinarian, receive vaccinations regularly, and have been sterilized.  We work with animal welfare groups to develop a happy environment for them; 
our goal is giving a second chance to cats who no longer have homes. "


I absolutely fell in love with "Calissie" (above) and "Ringo" 
(below), who napped in the chair beside me.
The Café des Chats is approved by France's Ministry of Agriculture and Animal Welfare Services, for food safety and hygiene.
This     place     is     busy !
Seating is limited, so reserve in advance.  If you don't have a reservation, try arriving at noon when they open - this is the best time to find an empty seat! 


Café   des   Chats      16  rue  Michel  le  Comte     75004    Paris
Metro :  Rambuteau cross rue Beaubourg to rue Michel Le Comte, 2-3 minute walk to no. 16 on your left.   reserve  online :  reservation@lecafedeschats.fr     by  phone : +33973533581     Note: the website is in French but you may reserve in English -  all    employees    speak    English.
review :   huffington  post



detail from the "Lady with the Unicorn" tapestry, "A Mon Seul Desir" (above)
I   always   enjoy   revisiting   the   spectacular  " Dame   à   la   Licorne " 
tapestries!   Often  called  "the  greatest  works  of  Medieval  art," and  even
"The  Mona  Lisa  of  the  Middle  Ages,"  this  series  of  six  tapestries  is  located  in  Paris'  Cluny  Museum.  Their design is 15th-century French, and their fabrication, Flemish, of wool and silk.  The series was likely commissioned by French nobleman Jean Le Viste, perhaps as a gift for his fiance.  His family's coat of arms is depicted in each tapestry.


the Lady with the Unicorn tapestry, "A Mon Seul Desir" (above)
Each tapestry depicts a noblewoman with a unicorn to her left and a lion to her right.  A coat of arms is also depicted in each.  The woman is shown in a garden or forest.  Most tapestries also include a maidservant and various animals and birds.
Five   tapestries   represent   the   senses.

details from "Hearing" and "Scent" tapestries (above, below) 
In this tapestry, the noble woman plays the organ, representing HEARING.
In another, she weaves a wreath of flowers, while a monkey smells a flower, representing SCENT.

In the tapestry representing  SIGHT, the woman holds a mirror to the unicorn, who sees his reflection.   Representing TASTE, the woman reaches into a bowl of sweets, while a monkey eats one nearby.  Last, the woman holds the unicorn's horn in one hand and the pennant in the other, representing TOUCH
details from "Sight" tapestry (below)



The   sixth   tapestry   is   unexplained.
 The woman now stands in front of a tent which is held open by the unicorn and lion.  The tent bears the inscription  "A  mon  seul  desir," meaning   "to  my  one  desire" or  "by  my  will  alone."   Many believe it represents an additional or sixth "sense."   The noblewoman places her necklace, worn in the other five tapestries, into a jewel coffer.  This is the largest tapestry and the only one in which the woman seems to smile.


Unicorns were often used in Medieval art to symbolize Christ.
Some interpret the sixth tapestry as a rejection of the material world, and an affirmation of Christianity.  Some believe it represents a spirit of peace, tranquility, or a reassurance that Christ will prevail.  It is also associated with free will, love and virginity.  Animals and birds shown in each tapestry carry their own symbolic meanings.  With no official documentation on these tapestries, however, the true meaning remains obscure.


My  favorite  aspects  of  these  tapestries  are  their
brilliant    colors    and    intricate    details.
The woman's dress shows beading, damask and moiré fabrics.  Bouquets of flowers and fruit and nut trees are beautifully executed.   the background is the most wonderful, unusual orange-red.  Blue and green tones are stunning as well, especially given the age of the tapestries (over 500-years-old).  The tapestries range in size from 9' x 11'-8" to 12' x 15' and their design remains true to the "Mille Fleurs" ("Thousand Flowers") style of their period.
"These fabulous wall hangings have exercised an almost universal fascination on all those who have encountered them for hundreds of years."- source


The tapestries were  recently  re-installed  in  the  museum
following an  extensive,  two-year  cleaning  and  restoration.   The tapestries returned to a new exhibition space, designed for optimal viewing, contemplation and conservation.   The tapestries' new arrangement is the way in which tapestries were shown during the Medieval era.  The order goes from the most material, earthly sense (taste) to the most spiritual, or exalted, (eyesight).   - artdaily.com


National Museum of the Middle Ages - Baths and Hôtel de Cluny
6, place Paul Painlevé    75005 Paris    hours: Wed-Mon, 9:15 to 5:45
Métro   Cluny-La Sorbonne,   Saint-Michel,   or   Odéon
review :  the guardian      review :  new york times


Among the many walking tours available in Paris,
Paris  Walks'  are the highest-rated and the best-priced!  At 12 euros (about $17) per person, you can choose from a wide range of Paris topics.  My favorites included "Revolutionary Paris"and "Paris Under The Occupation.Tours run on a given schedule, rain or shine, and last about two hours.  Just show up (no reservation needed)!   Entertaining,  informative,  and inexpensive  great way find out about Paris for the first-time or many-times Paris visitor! My husband enjoyed books from their recommended reading list as well.
  further  information
reviews :   trip advisor
SPECIAL MENTION: I highly recommend Paris Muse Tours as well.  
They're expensive, but worth every euro!



details of  "The Tapestry Room" (above)
I loved visiting this opulent, Belle-Epoque museum in Paris' 8th arrondissement.
A Second-Empire mansion, opened in 1913, it's comparable to the Frick Collection in New York and the Doria Pamphili Gallery in Rome.  It is an often-overlooked gem.


ornate carved mill work in "The Music Room" (above)
Edouard André, army officer and son of a banking family, married Nélie Jacquemart, a society artist who had painted his portrait. Together they built this private residence to house their extensive art collection.  My favorites included: Rembrant van Rijn's Supper at Emmaus, Jacques-Louis David's portrait of Antoine Français de Nantes, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini's bust of Gregory XV.

Rembrant's "Supper at Emmaus" in the Library (above)
Additional masterpieces include works of Canaletto,  Donatello,  Della Robbia,  Botticelli and Houdon.  The double-staircase boasts an extraordinary fresco by Giambattista Tiepolo.  These are just the tip of the iceberg!


Jacques-Louis David's "Antoine Français de Nantes" in the boudoir
Furnishings and antiques include pieces from the periods of Louis XIV to Louis XVI, in addition to Fifteenth and sixteenth-century Turkish carpets and Beauvais tapestries.  Edouard and Nélie created an"Italian Museum" on the second floor. It includes three exhibition spaces, called "Venetian, Florentine and [Italian] Sculpture" Galleries.


the antechamber, above, where Nélie and Edouard's private quarters joined
and where they enjoyed breakfast together.
The   perfect   place   to   spend   a   rainy   morning   or   afternoon!

Musée   Jacquemart - André
158, Blvd Haussmann 75008 Paris
Metro :   Miromesnil  or  Saint Philippe du Roule
Admission 10€ adults, 8.50€ children 7-17, 6 and under, free
museum  photo  galleries


This   post   is   really   five   little   posts   in   one   big   post!  
Click   on   orange - highlighted   words   for   further   info  and   enjoy! 
PHOTOS by Ruth Burts Interiors, with exception of numbers
2. kenzo.com, 17. artdaily.com, 20.-21. musée jacquemart-andré

R E L A T E D    P O S T S :


Paris   2012 :   Favorites


Paris   2010 :   Favorites


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